Civita di Bagnoregio: sogno a mezz’aria!

10 Marzo 2015

Il Lazio è uno scrigno tutto da scoprire e su questo siamo d’accordo. Così, quando pensi di aver girato la tua regione in lungo e in largo ecco che scopri quanta ignoranza si cela in tale convinzione. Ci sono ancora tanti scorci che meritano di essere ammirati, vissuti e immortalati.

Quindi? “Altro giro, altra corsa” direzione: Civita di Bagnoregio, meglio conosciuta come “la città che muore”, perché questo piccolo sogno a mezz’aria sorge su un terreno di tufo che rischia il crollo ogni giorno. 
La magia di Civita ti inebria sin dal primo momento, strabuzzi gli occhi e tutto ti appare così surreale, fiabesco e fuori dal tempo. Zaino in spalla, si parcheggia l’auto e ci si incammina verso il ponte pedonale, il borgo infatti è raggiungibile soltanto a piedi, ma niente paura, con 600 metri di passeggiata si arriva dritti al centro storico. 

Passato il ponte pedonale si gode di una vista sensazionale, si cammina nei piccoli vicoli e si assapora la vita di un tempo, ogni passo nasconde nuove scoperte, nuove meraviglie da ammirare e da gustare. 
Impossibile resistere ai richiami delle piccole locande, verrebbe voglia di provarle tutte, anche perché complice il freddo, la fame non manca mai. Consiglio ad occhi chiusi l’Osteria Al forno di Agnese, storica realtà tramandata di generazione in generazione. 

I prezzi sono più che onesti, i gestori gentilissimi e il menù è ricco di prelibatezze! Dopo una lunga scarpinata quello che ci vuole è una bella focaccia baffo e tartufo (per chi non lo sapesse per baffo s’intende il guanciale), un po’ di vinello e un piatto di polenta ai funghi porcini…Il locale è piccolissimo per cui potrebbe darsi che dobbiate attendere qualche minuto, ma non fatevi scoraggiare dall’attesa perché sarà ripagata alla grande.

Avete intenzione di fermarvi qualche giorno? Il consiglio spassionato è quello di cercare una sistemazione a Bagnoregio, che dista pochi km dal borgo. 
Il motivo è di tipo logistico: alloggiare a Civita di Bagnoregio significa, pagare 24 ore su 24 il parcheggio ai piedi del ponte pedonale e ancora, caricarsi i bagagli e trasportarli fino al centro. 


Per la nostra gita fuori porta abbiamo optato per “Le Fontanelle”, un piccolo B&B a conduzione famigliare, un’oasi verde che trasmette tranquillità ed energia. La struttura mette a disposizione una vera e propria casetta tutta da vivere: cucina, bagno, un bel soggiorno e camere da letto. Se siete una famigliola, qui vi sentirete a casa, avrete la propria autonomia e sarete a due passi da tante attrazioni che vi ruberanno un pezzo di cuore.

Ad accogliervi a “Le Fontanelle” ci pensa la Signora Anna, sempre sorridente, cordiale e super disponibile; lei sa come prendersi cura degli ospiti e così, oltre ai preziosi consigli per gite fuori porta, al mattino vi darà il buongiorno con una colazione regale. 

Favoloso il servizio, buone da morire le dolcezze handmade: torte, crostate, biscotti, delizie locali e ancora, marmellate e ciambelloni, muffin e thé di tutti i tipi. Io avrei preso la residenza qui da Anna, ha saputo coccolare il nostro palato e ci ha messo a nostro agio, altro che ospiti, qui ci siamo sentiti in famiglia. 
La comodità della cucina a disposizione, il calore del camino, l’immenso giardino e il silenzio surreale che si percepisce alle Tenute Le Fontanelle, mi porterà a scegliere ancora questo posto per nuove gite alla scoperta delle bellezze circostanti…D’altronde Bagnoregio è in una posizione strategica, tra colline, mare e montagna, ad un passo da Orvieto, Civita, Bolsena e perché no, Montefiascone e Siena. 

L’unica nota negativa è che ti affezioni talmente tanto al luogo e alla Signora Anna, che alla fine del soggiorno senti amplificata quella malinconia di fine vacanza…Ma qual è il problema? Si apre l’agenda e si pianifica un nuovo viaggio e subito torna il sorriso 🙂 

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